Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Ask The Fashion Professor - Continued



"The work 'talent' seems to get tossed around pretty liberally applied to fashion designers and Project Runway. What is 'talent' anyway'? Are the designers on
the show 'talented'?

Who has been the most talented designer on PR in your opinion?

Thanks,

Kathryn

Hi Kathryn,

Thanks for the question - it's a tricky one.

First I have to say that in the age of "reality" T.V. many people mistake celebrity and fame for talent - just because you've made it to cable doesn't mean you have talent.

Professionally, I use the word talent selectively and rarely. A designer's work must be outstanding - memorable - really, really unusual.

Obviously, there are many types of talent represented on the show - there have been some talented drapers, tailors, conceptualists, stylists, colorists, party dress makers, costumers, etc. They are are talented in their own way. I may not agree with their taste - or may not like their behavior - but they are still very talented.

There is another level of talent that only a few of the designers have achieved - where you say to yourself - that - is - absolutely - amazing!
I have a very good design memory - but I cannot remember more than a few garments that the PR designers have made and shown either during or after the show.

There's Jay. Jay is memorable and completely and totally unique. His work is immediately identifiable. He's the real deal. He also has personality and is immensely entertaining.

After seeing the Fashion Week show I think Christian may have it as well. Given a few years we may see really great things from him.

Thanks Kathryn!

Anthony


Dear Professor,

In today's BPR interview with Victorya Hong, she is quoted as saying, "I think Rami showed a strong collection as well, but I couldn´t understand his color story, and the progression of design."

What exactly do these two concepts mean and how do they play into judging the success or failure of a collection? For example, I really loved Jillian's collection but have no idea why in the middle of it there was that black and white striped top with the loopy sleeves. What role did that play in her color story and progression of design?

Thank you.

Kate C

Dear Kate,

Fascinating question!

Here's the deal. You are a fashion designer and have made it to Fashion Week. You've spent months designing and making your clothes, selecting models, accessories, hairstyles, music, etc. Add business, production, PR and marketing issues. You have anywhere from 5 - 15 minutes to impress the crowd which includes editors, journalists, fashion executives, celebrities, publicists, many of whom have already seen several shows and may be tired, bored, etc. You have to blow them away.

More importantly, it needs to be CRYSTAL CLEAR who you are, the concept or story, who your customer is and what you were thinking. Of the looks that go down the runway there were likely many more that didn't make the cut. There needs to be a common theme, color, look, shape, attitude or combination of these elements that holds it all together and can be immediately understood by buyers, execs and editors sitting in the front row.

Victorya noted being puzzled by Rami's color story and design sequence - something stood out. And you noted a Jillian piece that seemed odd. That's a problem. Having been backstage at the shows it can be beyond hectic - it's possible the models or garments got out of order. Or it may have been a larger issue. Indecision by the designer perhaps?

If the designer has a very clear idea of what the collection was about - there usually isn't a problem. But as designers new to the pressures of Fashion Week and showing their first really important collection the stress can be crippling - it is tough to make decisions under those conditions. That's what makes it exciting!

Cheers,

Anthony


Thank you Professor!

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